3 Cast-On Methods Every Knitter Should Know — and When to Use Each One
Hi, I’m Kim — the knitter and designer behind M1R KNIT. I teach the Norwegian knitting method through clear tutorials, modern patterns, and simple techniques designed to help you knit with more confidence and comfort.
Learning how to cast on is one of the very first steps in knitting — but there isn’t just one way to do it.
Different cast-on methods create different kinds of edges. Some are stretchy and versatile, while others are firmer and better suited to projects where you want more structure.
In this tutorial, I’m showing you three knitting cast-on methods I use regularly in my own work:
Long-tail cast-on
Knitted cast-on
Cable cast-on
I’ll also show you when I like to use each method, how they differ, and which one I recommend learning first if you’re a beginner knitter.
If you're brand new to knitting, don't worry about learning every cast-on method at once. Start with one, get comfortable with it, and build from there.
Watch the Video Tutorial
In the video tutorial, I demonstrate each cast-on slowly and from several different angles so you can follow along stitch by stitch.
1. Long-Tail Cast-On
The long-tail cast-on is the method I use most often — probably about 90% of the time.
It creates a neat, flexible edge and works beautifully for a wide variety of knitting projects.
If you only want to learn one cast-on method to begin with, this is the one I recommend.
The only slightly tricky part is figuring out how much yarn you need for your tail before you begin.
How Much Yarn Do You Need for a Long-Tail Cast-On?
A simple guideline I use is to make the tail approximately four times the width of the project.
For example, if your project will be approximately 12 inches wide:
12 inches × 4 = 48 inches
I also like to add another 6–8 inches so I have enough yarn left for weaving in the end.
I would much rather have a tail that's a little too long than run out of yarn before I've finished casting on my stitches.
And if you end up with quite a bit of extra yarn, you don't necessarily have to waste it. I often save those pieces to use as waste yarn when putting sweater stitches on hold.
Setting Up the Long-Tail Cast-On
Hold the tail around your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger to create the familiar slingshot position.
From there:
Insert the needle up through the loop around your thumb.
Bring the needle over to the yarn on your index finger.
Pick up that strand.
Pull it back through the loop around your thumb.
Remove your thumb and gently snug the stitch onto the needle.
Continue working in the same way until you have the number of stitches required for your project.
Don't Cast On Too Tightly
This is important with any cast-on method.
Your stitches should be able to move comfortably along the needle.
You do not need to pull each new stitch as tightly as possible against the needle. If your cast-on is too tight, knitting the first row can become unnecessarily difficult.
Aim for neat, even stitches that can still slide easily.
Knitwise vs. Purlwise Long-Tail Cast-On
In the tutorial, I also demonstrate both a knitwise and purlwise version of the long-tail cast-on.
The knitwise version is the one I use most often.
With the purlwise version, the direction of the cast-on stitch is reversed so the purl bump faces the opposite way.
You don't necessarily need both versions as a beginner. Unless a pattern specifically requires something different, I would concentrate on becoming comfortable with the standard long-tail cast-on first.
Once that feels natural, you can always add other variations to your knitting toolbox.
2. Knitted Cast-On
The knitted cast-on is another very useful method, and it can be especially beginner-friendly because you don't need to estimate a long yarn tail before you begin.
You only need enough yarn for weaving in your end — approximately 6–8 inches is plenty.
The stitches are created using the working yarn rather than the tail.
How to Work a Knitted Cast-On
Begin with a stitch on your needle.
Then:
Insert your right needle into the stitch as if to knit.
Knit a new stitch.
Instead of dropping the original stitch from the left needle, place the newly created stitch onto the left needle.
Gently snug the new stitch into place.
Repeat.
You are essentially knitting new stitches and adding each one back onto your needle.
When I Use a Knitted Cast-On
One of my favourite uses for the knitted cast-on is when I need to add stitches to an existing piece of knitting.
For example, a sweater pattern may ask you to cast on additional stitches at the beginning or end of a row.
I find the knitted cast-on gives me a much cleaner result for this than a backwards-loop cast-on.
It also works well as a general-purpose cast-on if you're a beginner and just want to get started without worrying about estimating the length of a long tail.
The trade-off is that I find the knitted cast-on a little firmer and less flexible than the long-tail cast-on.
For that reason, the long-tail cast-on is still my preferred everyday method.
3. Cable Cast-On
The cable cast-on looks similar to the knitted cast-on, but there is one important difference.
Instead of inserting your needle into the stitch to create the next stitch, you insert your needle between the first and second stitches.
This creates a much firmer, more structured cast-on edge.
How to Work a Cable Cast-On
Begin by creating your first two stitches.
Then:
Insert the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left needle.
Wrap the yarn and knit a new stitch.
Pull the new stitch through.
Place the new stitch onto the left needle.
Repeat by inserting the needle between the first and second stitches again.
Try not to tighten these stitches too much.
Because you're inserting the needle between the stitches, you'll need enough room to comfortably fit the needle into that space.
When Should You Use a Cable Cast-On?
The cable cast-on creates a stable, decorative edge, but it doesn't have much stretch.
Because of that, I would not choose it for projects where the cast-on needs to stretch considerably.
For example, I would not use it for:
Socks
Mitts
Beanies or toques
Sweater cuffs
Other openings that need to stretch comfortably over the body
I prefer using it for projects where stability is more important than elasticity, such as:
Blankets
Dishcloths
Washcloths
Towels
Other flat projects that don't need a stretchy opening
It creates a very pretty edge, which can make it a lovely option for certain projects.
Which Knitting Cast-On Should You Learn First?
If you're wondering where to begin, my recommendation is simple:
Learn the long-tail cast-on first.
It's versatile, flexible, and works for so many different knitting projects that you'll likely use it again and again.
If you're brand new to knitting and the long-tail cast-on feels overwhelming, however, start with the knitted cast-on.
You don't have to estimate your tail length, and once you understand how to make a knit stitch, the technique is quite straightforward.
Then come back and learn the long-tail cast-on when you're ready.
The cable cast-on is a great method to add later when you want a firmer, more decorative edge.
Three Cast-On Methods, Three Different Uses
There isn't one cast-on that's perfect for every knitting project.
That's why understanding a few different techniques is so useful.
Long-tail cast-on: my favourite all-purpose option and the method I use most often.
Knitted cast-on: simple, neat, and especially useful when adding stitches to an existing project.
Cable cast-on: firm and decorative, making it better suited to projects where stretch isn't important.
You certainly don't need to memorize dozens of cast-on techniques to become a confident knitter.
Learn a few reliable methods, understand what each one does, and choose the one that best suits the project you're making.
And if you're learning to knit with the Norwegian knitting method, you'll find more slow, beginner-friendly knitting tutorials here on M1R KNIT to help you build your skills one technique at a time.
Happy Knitting,
XO Kim
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